Sheer Confidence from Prabal Gurung.


By Liz Weeks

Synthesizing a kaleidoscope view of his impressions from a visit to his native Nepal and the small, relatively untouched republic of Mustang deep in the Himalayas, designer Prabal Gurung's presented a collection fractured with wispy beauty. In his fall/winter 2014 collection the evidence of his inspiration is clear and seemingly simple. Gurung seems to have made an emotional connection with the graceful draping and beautiful spice coloring of the pure garb of Buddhist monks and textured and colorful nomadic layering of the Himalayan natives. With a vocabulary that included chunky knits, waffle knits, draped wool and cashmere wraps, Mongolian lamb, exotic fur, suede and feather flourishes, stunning native prints, shiny satin and the designer's notoriously beautiful draping, Gurung presented a collection that challenged proportions and embraced asymmetry while simultaneously redefining the modern lady-warrior.

Known for his sparkling bedazzled red carpet dresses, which again were striking this season, all surprising elegant with high turtleneck collars, it was the designer's modern play with proportion and textures in his daywear that most impressed us. Those thigh reveling wrapped chiffon and satin skirts really rocked our world. Draped around one hip and hanging knee-length with flowing abandon on the other, these amazing skirts are a post punk mosaic of cultures and class. Paired with beautiful knit sweaters and scarves, and layered with fur jackets or blanket style wraps, the wispy skirts proclaimed sheer confidence. The lovely and intriguing asymmetrical cut of our favorite skirts was a motif throughout the show. The adept use of fabric draping and inlays, both textural and printed, redefined the designer's inspirations into shape-shifting magic, a hallmark of a passionate designer. We are thrilled to see the young Mr. Gurung pair elements of his cultural heritage with his impressive artistic vision in this collection.

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Dries Van Noten Summer 2015. Modern Day Ophelia.
issue 100
Best of 2014.