A Look Within. Deep Woods Drama from Dries Van Noten.


By Liz Weeks

Within his fairy tale forest oasis, inspired by A Midsummer Night's Dream, Dries Van Noten's models sauntered on a muted carpet, brilliantly crafted to resemble tufts of moss, while the sounds of birds echoed in the dimly lit hall. This setting, fit for the resurrection of history's original and most beautiful flower girl Ophelia as depicted in the infamous painting by Sir John Everett Millais, narrated the Spring and Summer 2015 collection. With all the tragedy aside, Mr. Van Noten's modern day Ophelia's are bedecked with his signature cerebral montages of textures, tones, patterns and prints.

Boldly stripped fluid diaphanous layers of chiffon made for the most overly feminine dress in the collection. Stripes would continue to be an element throughout. Striped necktie silks and pajama patterns were the primary menswear details infused into the collection. Mr. Van Noten has used masculine pinstripes to create a new neutral that perfectly complement his awe-inspiring fabric mixes.

In continuation of the menswear theme, pants were worn under skirts and long stunning beaded or brocade jackets. It can never go without saying that the designer's textiles are masterworks. Metallic fibers were adeptly woven into a few of the complex fabric to create sparkle, and beautiful beadwork and sequenced flourishes added moon-glow pinpoints of illumination. While a hippy-ease of pattern and layering was suggested in the collection, it is the signature orchestration of each moving mélange that brings the gravity and requisite beauty back to our modern day Ophelia.

issue 101
Dries Van Noten Summer 2015. Modern Day Ophelia.
issue 100
Best of 2014.